Fly Them Like Kites
By: Stephen C. Rafe
I won't try to get into how to build housing units here, but you want to end up with two 4ft, x 4ft x 8ft high boxes. They should have pitched roofs that overhang at least 2 inches on all four sides of each box. The bottom halves should be solid and the top halves should be screened -- except on the back sides.
Put hinges on the roof, door, and at least one side of the enclosure, to make cleaning easier. Be sure to make a double floor out of close-mesh chicken wire or hardware cloth. Staple one to the top side of your framing lumber and one to the bottom. This will help keep predators such as raccoons from pulling the feet off your birds.
Motivation
Overall, an important objective should be to make it worth their while to fly. They should have to fly up to a shelf to eat or drink water, or to sit in the sun and look out. It would also be a good idea to make it so they have to fly from an enclosed area to a sunny one. In any case, you will have to give the birds plenty of sunlight, fresh air, and fresh water. You will also have to maintain their quarters in absolutely sanitary condition at all times. In addition, you will need to protect them from bad weather. Finally, you will have to shield them from human contact as much as you can so they will stay as wild as possible.
If you decide not to build your own enclosure, you can purchase "Better Quail House Plans" from Lion Country Supply in Pennsylvania. The plans show you how to build an improved version of what some people call a "Johnny House."
The Process
For the process that follows, use only mature birds (at least 12-weeks old and fully fledged). Prepare three or four one-liter bottles: Drill holes all the way through the necks, feed the end of a 12-foot length of braided fishing line through each hole, and knot it. Attach a twist tie securely to the loose ends of each piece of line. Add about four inches of water or small, clean pebbles and replace the caps. You will attach these devices to one leg on each bird. They will become your "drags." When you fly the birds, they will cause the birds to work hard to stay aloft before settling into a landing. Attach a strip of fluorescent surveyors' tape to each so you can find the birds easily later.
Caging Birds
When you take birds out, you should "drive" them or "flush" them directly into carry cages. (Scotts Dog Supply's on-line catalog and other catalogs have them.) Cover the cage with an old towel or piece of a sheet. Take them to an open field.
Once there, handle the birds only long enough to do the following: Take one bird out of the cage at a time, put your thumb and index on either side of its breastbone and massage it in small, gentle circles. This will "hypnotize" the bird and keep it from becoming used to being handled as you attach a twist tie to its leg. Then shake the bird lightly -- enough to wake it up. Next, toss bird and bottle into the air with both hands -- into the wind. If the bottle is to heavy for the first bird, remove some of the water or pebbles.
Repeat this with as many birds as you have bottles. Then, if you have more birds, pick up the ones you have exercised and put these into a separate carry cage while you work with the rest. The more often you do this, the better your birds will fly.
Steve
Starfire, P.O. Box 3119, Warrenton, VA, 20188-1819 Tel / Fax: (540) 349-1039
Click Here